Dazzling Lights, Starry nights

You’ve heard all the stories, seen all the pictures, but with a place like Dubai, it has to be seen in person rather than reading a brief description from an amateur blogger. The skyline is second to none, the wealth unsurpassed, the vibe unparallel and the fashion needs to be experienced to be appreciated. It's people watching on steroids and life bigger than life itself. The city does not exist without millions of foreign workers catering to the needs of the UAE elite. A tax-free haven and a very liberal visa policy, lead to about 9 million expats residing in a country of only 10 million. We weren’t there long enough to truly get a real grip on reality, but our one dinner out near the spectacular water fountain show at the base of the highest building on earth, the 163 story Burj Khalifa, set us back about $650, but it was money well spent for a once-in-a lifetime experience. There are just not enough superlatives to describe what we experienced but our front row seat, to both a culinary and unique light and water show, has certainly left a lifelong memory.

One of the principle reasons for visiting the Musandam Peninsula is to see one of my favorite natural wonders of the world, fjords. I was not disappointed but there was a certain edge added to this adventure which made for a little more of an enticing experience. We are on the shores of the Strait of Hormuz and only a 20-mile passage of water separates us from Iran. With the uneasy political situation and the 7th fleet anchored out there somewhere, kept speculation rampant and sightings of Iranian traders intriguing. Scores of small, yellow and blue motor-powered boats bring fruits, vegetables, rugs and who knows whatever else over from Iran during the day while returning with electronics and every other day necessary products such as tires by night. At one point this practice was illegal smuggling but completely legal now and still intriguing despite the police boat enforcing that the necessary permits are in order. The fjords did not disappoint. Towering rock faces with little to no vegetation and the occasional goat somehow managing to survive, clinging to the cliffs. The real treat and star attraction however were the many dolphins playing in the waters. They would catch the wake of our Dowd boat and slide along the side of us, rolling over and playing with their young while showing off their swimming skills.

Snorkeling and swimming were also part of the itinerary along with a BBQ of fresh fish. We had gone fishing the previous evening and I had been successful in catching three fish but not being a fisherman, I have no idea what kind of fish I was providing for someone else’s dinner table. A trip into the mountains and a scary 4 x 4 ride up to 1800 meters on a narrow gravel road was another eerie journey. Passing fully armed military jeeps and being told not to take pictures on our way up to what I would say was a military radar station was just another reminder of the fragile political situation. However I still managed to secretly take a couple undercover shots and since I am now safely boarded and on our return trip, I guess it is safe now to share some of my clandestine activity with you. Well it was Valentine's Day and since I didn't get a card before leaving and cosidering this is a Muslim country where I don't suppose they celebrate too many Saints, I had to do the cheesy thing and take the tourist pic with the Oman heart. I better get home and get my act in order. Well, this post will conclude my most recent blog and I thank you for tagging along with me. Our next travel date will be mid-March when we venture back to the Antarctic so perhaps, we will get together for some more travel reviews and experiences in the not-too-distant future. Allahu Akbar الله أكبر

Making Cultural Inroads…One Canada Pin At A Time

One of my favorite gestures of goodwill is to pass out Canada pins to young and old alike. Today was particularly fun when we went to the frankincense market. The salesgirl, dressed in her full length, full face covering burka, spoke very good English and was very pleasant in our negotiation of frankincense, innocence and myrrh. I asked if she had any children as I wanted to give her pins for them but she responded that she was single and had no children but she would really like a pin for herself. She was having difficulty trying to attach it. I offered to help pin into her burka but she brushed me off saying I was not allowed to help her signaling that I was a male, but she consented to Jennifer giving her a hand. I timidly asked her if she would allow me to take a picture with her and she graciously agreed. Word must have gotten out as other salesgirls wanted pins and they too were agreeable to having their pictures taken with this old sheep herder wearing my dishdashi and turban. Wearing the traditional dress I had a little fun trying to buy a camel which I could easily transport back home with me. I still don't know how our leader Gordon was able to do it, but we all got upgrades to villas in this fabulous resort in Salalah on the southeast coast of Oman. This was my first experience at getting my sunglasses cleaned by a beach attendant while sitting on a lounge under an umbrella. Perhaps I'll have a cold beer while he is at it, then I'll try out the largest infinity pool I've ever seen. This has got to be one of the best beaches we have ever been privileged to see. Wide, white sand beaches, stretching to the horizon in both directions with water temperatures into the high 20's along with sandy/no coral walking into the sea, all the way along where the sea meets the sand. And as an added bonus there were no crowds with screaming children and arrogant Americans. We both agree that the only other comparable beach we have been to was Goa in southern India, though Mike, one of our fellow travelers said he thought the beaches in Siri Lanka were even better. One day.....

Even though we would have liked to spend all of our three days at the resort, we did venture out for visits to archeological sites, a trip to the Sultan's Palace and some more dune bashing in 4x4s. The journey continues on to Dubai today, which should be a giant step into a completely different stratosphere. Allahu Akbar الله أكبر

I've Never Seen Anything like It

We have arrived at the ancient capital of Nizwa and done the tour of the second largest fort in Oman. The fort is unique and the old town with its narrow streets is filled with local families out for a leisurely evening stroll, with ice cream seeming to be on most people’s minds. Walking the windy streets of the famous market along with all its trappings of vegetables, fish, dates, pottery and fragrances, it is the Goat Market which really has caught my attention. Every Friday starting at 07:00 there is an auction for goats and cattle and as chaotic and as unruly as it appears to be, everything proceeds according to tradition and the time-tested business of buying and selling the goats and cattle, evolves as it should. Considering it is Friday; many young people are on hand to help their families by parading and helping in the showcasing of the young kids to the old and scraggly ones who have passed their prime. The potential buyers examine the teeth, lift the tails and squeeze the hind quarters to determine both the health and potential meat production. The faces and personalities of both the buyers and sellers is mesmerizing to the unfamiliar such as me. I have included two videos, as I found this experience to be truly unique and unforgettable.

Later that day after climbing a mountain pass of approximately 3000 metres, and after having transferred to smaller vehicles, we navigate the back-and-forth roads as we were transported to the mountain village of Jebel Akhdar. There we embarked on a relatively short hike of about 1 ½ hours. We hiked between three towns along meandering trails of stone pathways and irrigation channels. The mostly abandoned towns are home to terraced gardens growing pomegranates, apricots and roses. We are in winter season now, but I can only imagine the blooming of blossoms in the spring. The views are amazing and reminiscent of many terraced wine regions we have previously visited and the walk was a well welcomed excuse to get out and stretch our legs. I am reminded by the call to prayers from the mosque and its minarets that last night we were hosted by a local family who cooked a traditional Omani meal known as a shuwa. It is a meal of a slowly cooked meat underground. Tonight is a whole lamb accompanied by different kinds of rice, salads, fresh fruits and too many sweet deserts to recall, though many of the ingredients included honey and dates. Today was a fun outing to a pottery factory (and I use the term factory loosely) which dates back 500 years. We all got to try our hand at spinning the wheels, throwing the clay and getting our hands dirty. Obviously, we wouldn’t be able to bring our creations home as there was no time for kiln drying but we were rewarded for our efforts with some pottery gifts to bring along with us. The young son of the owner who helped me, was thrilled with the Canada pin I gave him. One more trip to yet another fort and palace. The Imans were extremely well guarded and protected back in the day over the centuries. The Iman was not only the spiritual leader but the absolute ruler as well. Should he fall to invading forces the regime would collapse, so all steps to protect him we taken. The forts are extremely well maintained and the descriptions that we learned to protect the forts and the Imans including the pouring of boiling date juice and death fall down shoots to potential attackers were all explained in intricate detail. Allahu Akbar الله أكبر